B Tutorial 2D Poomtang's texturing tutorial masterclass

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poomtang

Knight at Arms
Please bare in mind this is how I do things, there are lots of different methods out there, this one is mine and I've only wrote this because lots of people have asked me about how to texture, this is how I personally manage do it. I hope it helps with your modding.

Thanks for looking

Poomtang

Tools needed

Wings 3d
Photoshop (P.S.)
Smart Normal
OpenBRF



OK here's the shell model of our first Russian infantryman, it looks like nothing at the moment, but I'm going to invite you all to watch it grow into a beautiful infantry model for the Russian army, this will be a joint effort by myself and Keryyin, as I teach Keryyin some texturing tecniques, so plase keep watching as it grows.

I will show you how to texture, the way I do it, I will show how to make specular and normal maps, in fact all th parts you need to make a nice model for your own mod.

openBrf2012-05-0916-39-16-84.png



openBrf2012-05-0916-39-28-83.png


First step, once we have made/selected the model we want to texture is to start with a blanck U.V map or texture map, this one, as you can see, I've cut up into sections using Wings 3d, I have seperated the chest area, the back, the arms, both left and right are seperate, I've seperated the collar, and cuffs, the tailcoat, the tailcoat lining and the legs, this is now ready to go for texturing.

russianinfantryman.png


The next step is to do a little research we want to find out exactly how a Russian soldier of the Napoleonic wars looked, so simpley google it in google images and see what you can find, save the pictures you find for reference material.

1809-1815_Russian_Infantry_artwork1.jpg


OK basically, the Russian infantryman we want to make uses a green woolen tunic faced red, with white breeches make of cotten or linen. The next step is to google for swatches of green and red wool, here's some I've found.

imagesCAAHAM12.jpg


Green wool material for the tunic, this I want to copy and paste straight onto my texture map in photoshop, to the right of your workspace there's a little tool for adjusting the opasity of you texture use this to basically see through your woolen swatch, set it to 50% and place the now transparent swatch over the chest area.

Using the edit, free transform option, adjust the size of the swatch until it completely covers the chest area. Once you have done this, trim around the edges, using you rubbe, or errasor tool, until the swatch matches the pattern of your uniform jacket chest. see below.

russianinfantryman2copy.png


Repeat the process for all the main parts of the uniform, until it is completely green, once this is done, you can re-adjust the opasity back to 100%.

Here you can see I've moved on a bit and copied and pasted swatches of red military style wool and linen for the collar, cuffs, tailcoat and tailcoat lining.

russianinfantrymancopy.png


I've saved my texture as a DDS and introduced it to my mod by importing the material and the texture via open BRF, I've also saved and imported my model into my mod using open BRF. Here's the result so far.

openBrf2012-05-0917-47-36-29.png


openBrf2012-05-0917-47-48-16.png


If you've been following the tutorial, your model should now look something like this.

openBrf2012-05-0918-48-27-79.png


openBrf2012-05-0918-49-08-69.png


CLOTHING SEAMS, BUTTONS & BASIC SHADING

There's a couple of ways to make these, the first is to draw the lines in black in the position you want with a solid brush in photoshop, the other and the method I prefer to follow, is to simpley copy a seam from a piece of clothing, say for example,  use google images and type in green woolen coat, lots of images will pop up. Copy and paste the one that best matches your uniform coat onto your texture, then use the lasoo tool to copy the part you are interested in , in this case the seam from a sleeve. Put that seem into the position you want and rub out the remain parts of the google image you don't want.

0902610620Coat20183020green20wool20red20gold20trim2042L1.jpg


You can use a combination of, edit, free transform, warp to manipulate the copied seam into the size and position you want, you can further use the rubber, or better still the opasity tool to blend in your seam.

russian1infantryman.png


Here's an image of how the seams should look on a uniform from the period, its a bit of a pain in the ass the match them all up, but this is what you are looking to achieve, You can you the brush tool to enhace the seams and provide a little bit of darker shading, more on that later.

openBrf2012-05-1007-19-38-72.png


Have a close look at the next image, here you can see that I've added buttons and some basic shading, to create the illusion of shadow on the cloth of the coat. First the buttons, find an image of a button that you like from google mages, copy and paste as described above, re-size using edit, free transform from the drop down menu in P.S.(photoshop) and position your buttons where you need them on your model.

Next go back to the layer of your texture before you pasted the first button, select a brush, I've used a soft round at 17 pixels and I've set the opasity to 75% because of the darkness of the material of the uniform. You may have to do this several times, apply your paint behind the button to make it stand out from the rest of the uniform, the soft round brush will have the effect of radiating out from behind the button, do this for every button. You can also do this behind the facing colour of the cuffs, the tailcoat as you can see here, below, all of this has the effect of creating a shadow and making the red trim stand out even more and catch the eye better. Note I've only shaded the one on the left of the uniform jacket and not the right to show the difference. Next try shading the edges around the neckline, armpits, collar and cuffs as per the second image below.

openBrf2012-05-1008-57-42-42.png


russianinfantryman333.png


OK our soldier is taking shape now,  and should be looking something like this, notice the effect our shading has had on the top of the sleeves, its provided another seam, also the neck line now has shadows, as do the cuffs and tailcoats.

openBrf2012-05-1009-49-39-50.png


openBrf2012-05-1009-49-32-86.png


CREASES & FOLDS

Now we'll talk about creases and folds in materials, there are a number of ways to do this, but first we have to take a close look at where creases and folds in clothing naturally occur. We're going to look at the sleeves, folds and creases will occur at the joints, we all know that, the elbow, the armpit and the wrist area is what we're interested in.

One way to re-create these is to make the colours of the material you are working on contast with varying shades of light and dark. Here for example I've chosen an off white wool material, I've highlighted it with white and contrasted that with grey, see below

Untitled-1.png


In the next image, I've manipued the shades with edit, free transform, warp, from the drop down menu in P.S. and I can further blend this in using the opasity tool on the right of my workspace in P.S. and I can take this even further by using the rubber/errasor tool and setting it to say 10 or 15% on a soft brush (pixel setting is up to you, which is the size really) and washing it over the surface of my image to blend it and fade it in perfectly.


Untitled-2.png


The other method I use to get folds in material is to simpley copy and paste it from pictures of uniforms, then using edit free transform, warp in P.S and using the opasity tool and the rubber as descibed above, copy and paste the piece you want and then blend it into your texture. Here's a photo I used. and below is the result

20275_61-1.jpg


I used my lasso tool to take the part of the image that I wanted, the sleeve and the side of the green uniform, heres the result on the texture map after a little bit time spent cutting and pasting blending and rubbing.

russianinfantrymanwwcopy.png


and here it is on the model, note the small pleats at the top of the sleeve and the wear marks at the elbows, the creases and folds are completely natural as they are taken from a real garment and merely blended into the texture surface.

openBrf2012-05-1013-51-07-98.png


For the next stage, just repeat the process for the breeches/trousers as I've done here, I'm no artist and I never will be, all I've done is copy and paste pieces of the box art Russian soldiers above and manipulated and blended the parts I wanted into the trousers, here's what I mean take a look at the model and I've also included the texture map for you to see.

openBrf2012-05-1016-14-10-39.png


russianinfantrymanmcopy.png


Here's the final texture map, I've filled in a little more detail added the rest of the buttons and matched in the rest of the jacket's material so it doesn't stick out as different from the rest of the blending I've done, if you're still reading this we're moving on to the second tutorial, on creating normal maps, which I promise is much shorter and not difficult at all.

russianinfantryman-1.png















 
Does it actually have any importance to show all the wireframes to make the texture ? I usually only select draw borders. I guess i'm missing something since i don't clearly see the variations in the model shape now that i think about it.
 
Sometimes Keryyin, wireframes are useful when you navigate around the texture map and want to find specific positions, for example when placing tailoring seams and so on. I'm out of time for now, tomorrow we'll take a look at seams and where to put them and how to adjust them using warp edit in photoshop.
 
I'm now using the entire wireframed uvmap as you suggested. It's definitely better. Two reasons for me, first you put the uvmap on alpha channel in your photoshop file and enable it to see the wireframe, then you can match the plume tool with the wireframe points extremities etc to make you painting as fitting to the model shape as possible.

And then wireframe allows you to create easily multiple layers for each important part of the uniform. My first tweaked textures with photoshop had 2 - 4 layers, nothing major, and i often made mistakes which forced me to try again. But now my textures are around 80mb for the biggest file and uses up to 50 layers if i don't merge any by categories (buttons, cuffs, pockets, almost anything considering i'm using layers especially for customizations, such as rank stripes, simple color change on collars, cuffs etc... ).

Layers can help you to apply shadows / shaders and seems by simply using the blending options within your layer properties, which i'm now using a lot more than when i started out. I was painting most of it by myself using the plume or select tool then filling the path i made with the brush tool preset or another tool i prepared in advance.

Basic organisation for me now is: alpha uvmap enabled (to see it underneath no matter what you do or opacity) => layer base (shape of the part i want to apply colors and pattern) => layer color (i paint any change in colors over that layer)  => layer pattern / texture effect (with blending options). This way i can change almost anything without losing the basis of the skin, alpha preventing me from going too far away from the model shape and makes it easier to see where the model "connects" with the other parts.

I may be complicating things when working on texures, but this way of doing it makes it simple, clear and more importantly, easy to customize if i wan't to do variants.
 
So far using your method i made this:
russianinfantry.jpg

russianinfantryback.jpg

Folds are really nice looking with blending etc, i feel stupid as i didn't figured this out sooner. I painted my folds myself like an idiot. Still need to find a good picture, as i'm texturing in 2048 :p !
 
Very useful tutorial Poomtag. I'm a noob in this kind of things (If I can call my self noob), and I have been trying to find something like this, so thanks for this tutorial  :razz:
 
Hey no problem Mitchel, if you want to re-texture any of my stuff please feel free to experiment.
 
Really useful, especially for the folds. French are mostly finished so i'm going to move on hanover first, to make some more troops for britain, then prussians will be updated as well, but i'm not releasing anything until i come up with something "complete" to makes things easier for vympel.

Thanks to those tricks i can probably make more realistic looking uniforms. Still need to learn a bit more about normal maps, i'm doing my own but my settings are pretty much random, depending on the file, so it's not always that great.
 
Well Keryyin, don't waste your time the Hanovarians have already been done, I can let you have the textures for the King's German Legion if you want, maybe you could add to them some junior ranks or something, however the infantry, rifles and officers for both are already made, the only outstanding model is the light dragoons model, and its not been made yet, although you could probably patch one together with the models already made.
 
Still the prussians to do then :p ! Anyways, i'll stop texturing whatever i want and wait for demands from you or vympel instead, when i'm finished with the french i mean.
 
I want to retex prussian jagers, the current skin is killing my eyes :grin: ! If you or vympel haven't reworked it that is. I really like prussian jagers, i remember the first time i saw their uniform all in dark green with the cool long pants with buttons etc i thought, wow, those guys are really cool ! :O It was long ago though, and uniform was probably more like 1805 - 1807 in style.
 
The uniforms of the Russian infantry are good, but the shakoes are NOT..... They introduced those MM-like shakoes in March 1812.... And the campagain had started in June ( 13th :razz: ), so that shako is not good :razz:
 
Here's the Russian musketeer ready to go, just needs a normal and a specular map and he'll take the field. This shako was worn from 1805 until 1812 and is the one we'll be using, the Kiwer shako was introduced in 1812, but not all units would have been issued with it automatically on the day you say, things take time to filter, even shakos.

openBrf2012-05-1114-14-39-11.png
 
poomtang said:
Here's the Russian musketeer ready to go, just needs a normal and a specular map and he'll take the field. This shako was worn from 1805 until 1812 and is the one we'll be using, the Kiwer shako was introduced in 1812, but not all units would have been issued with it automatically on the day you say, things take time to filter, even shakos.

openBrf2012-05-1114-14-39-11.png

The ONLY regiment that basically refused to give up the old shako was the Moscow Musketeers, the entire army was resupplied by July 1812.... Uniforms were kept until the winter, when they started wearing the winter uniforms. :smile:

Another thing good to do would be making two units ( two infantrymen )
-Old style infantry ( after recruit, who wears the militia/partizan uniform )
-New style infantry ( after the old style infantry )
That would be good, the only diff would be the hat :smile:
 
Even though historic accuracy is an objective, it's better to allow factions to have more variations even if it's sometimes not entirely designs worn during the campaign timeline. Thruth is kiwer shako was in cooperation with the old model for a time, so it will feature in the mod i guess. You can't change the entire russian army outfit in a few days anyways.

Here, following the wireframes and using pictures to tweak like the tutorial shows it, i was able to completely rework the cuirassier:
cuirassier.jpg

cuirassierb.jpg

Russian Chevalier will be easy to finish now. Model of the jacket is altered to reduce clipping to minimum, it's almost non existent in the preview animations of cheering and walking.
 
I think you made the carabinier already if i'm not mistaken. Oh well, there is enough french troops now to make a pretty big roster.
 
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