Official 3D art thread - Warband

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Life_Erikson said:
pecores_stan said:
Life_Erikson said:
pecores_stan said:
Well you know I love swords. So learning about them is good. If you say It's a WallHanger i trust you. Now I would love to make real sword models for mods or for OSPs. But I just made this sword because i cou'ldn't make that tuga and it was let's say getting on my nerves because i could'nt even get the shape. I didn't looked for the authenticity.

Yeah. There is nothing wrong about that.  :wink:

But if you are about to make a sword anytime I suggest you this site as a good reference:
http://www.albion-europe.com/

You're sure they are Authentic ? Because If you start me I will have all those models done. Not their textures though.

EDIT: Found this
Agincourt
NG-AGI-BRO-WEB.jpg

Too Bad they haven't any scabbards.

These swords have the perfect measurements of original medieval swords.
Though they are not actually forged but "cut" out of steel, the look is the same as the originals and the quallity of the steel might even be better.

Good luck!  :wink:

Well it seems some of them are just should be swords. They don't exactly know. I'm gonna make one of them. Haven't decided yet.
 
I was skimming trought my model libary and found some ScFi:ish stuff I've done, no textures really haven't bothered to do that.
werl2012-04-2022-43-30-08.jpg
[/img]
werl2011-08-1519-13-16-37.jpg
werl2010-12-3123-57-01-24.jpg

werl2010-12-3123-56-53-26.jpg

Oh boy this model has some glitches  :roll:
 
pecores_stan said:
Actually I got a version of 3Dsmax 2011 but I'm working on a netbook easier to transport mostly so I'm not sure he will even run it.

I must have done a hundred swords and shields.
The problem is not really modelling it's uvmapping it and texturing it. I have done normal maps, speculars, and all that stuff. But like you said i need to learn to texture. And that's what i'm trying to do.

I've got something for you : Roadkill UV Tool

I can explain you the workflow on the pecores TS when you want.
 
My first helm with a real texture (made from Narf metal base) that I made with Photofiltre instead of Photoshop which is too complicated:
kEyu.jpg

AMXt.jpg

Eiw2.jpg

ri9ND.jpg

Texture:
R7nMo.jpg
Normal map:
lok9W.jpg

I am not happy with the normal.
 
Al_Mansur said:
My first helm with a real texture (made from Narf metal base) that I made with Photofiltre instead of Photoshop which is too complicated:
kEyu.jpg

AMXt.jpg

Eiw2.jpg

ri9ND.jpg

Texture:
R7nMo.jpg
Normal map:
lok9W.jpg

I am not happy with the normal.

well if you want to get good result with normal maps play with height maps instead of trying to use diffuse map for it
cause the algorithm, with form normal maps from diffuse or height maps looks like this:
it reacts in color light value changes
so if you giving diffuse map it will have a lot of things to do with are not wanted for a normal maps
well if you need more info read mine tutorial (in tutorial section)

by the way those ornaments you modeled are not needed thing if you could do good normal maps


 
rgcotl said:
Al_Mansur said:
My first helm with a real texture (made from Narf metal base) that I made with Photofiltre instead of Photoshop which is too complicated:
kEyu.jpg

AMXt.jpg

Eiw2.jpg

ri9ND.jpg

Texture:
R7nMo.jpg
Normal map:
lok9W.jpg

I am not happy with the normal.

well if you want to get good result with normal maps play with height maps instead of trying to use diffuse map for it
cause the algorithm, with form normal maps from diffuse or height maps looks like this:
it reacts in color light value changes
so if you giving diffuse map it will have a lot of things to do with are not wanted for a normal maps
well if you need more info read mine tutorial (in tutorial section)

by the way those ornaments you modeled are not needed thing if you could do good normal maps

This. (I'm not good at it either btw.)

Especially the fitting of the top part to the rest of the helm looks strange. In the bumpmap it looks like a groove but it should be two pieces of metal overlapping.
And of course the rivets should turn out of the texture not in.

Otherwise it looks very nice.
Do you have a reference for it?
 
Al_Mansur, the opening for the eyes looks way, WAY too big for my taste - a sword or a lance could easily get through it. If I were you, I would decrease both its height (by at least 50%, maybe even more than that) and its width (by ca.30-40%). Just look at the relative position of the knight's eyes with respect to the opening in the helmet.
 
Thanks a lot for the advices rgcotl. I know that I could make the ornaments with the normal map, but I am not enough good at texturing for that. Also, I noticed that even Dejawolf does model ornaments like that (cross-like reinforcement etc.).

@ Life Erikson & JoG, here the reference:
1335041272-Sanstitre2%282%29.jpg
As you can see the eyes' opening is quite big. But yeah I should reduce it. The problem is that I will have to remake the UVmapping and adapt the texture if I do it.
 
Very nice helmets, Zimke :smile: The neck guard on the last two helmets looks a t bit flat imo.

_____________

Made a new texture for the blade and finished the normal and spec maps. I think I can move on to the scabbard.
Sword3.png
 
Al_Mansur said:
My first helm with a real texture (made from Narf metal base) that I made with Photofiltre instead of Photoshop which is too complicated:
kEyu.jpg

AMXt.jpg

Eiw2.jpg

ri9ND.jpg

Texture:
R7nMo.jpg
Normal map:
lok9W.jpg

I am not happy with the normal.
Got some bad articles on your normalmap... Maybe you should double the NM's size.
 
@Al_Mansur:

You should do a special version of the diffuse for the normalmap making, without those shadows, as rgcotl pointed out.

All that because the filter identifies height like this: the brighter, the higher; the darker, the lower.

When you apply the normalmap filter in an unprepared diffuse, the shadows count as negative height, so, instead of looking like this:
      ___
___| 


It ends up looking like this:
___    ___
      \_/

      ^
        |
(shadow)

It's good to have the shadows, light, base texture, scratches and base color all in different layers, so you can render them in different layers and control their intensity via opacity and overlay in a layered normalmap file (usually .psd).

I generally do the following:

1) In the main file, I turn off all the layers (shadowing included) but the wanted piece and save that to a .jpg;

2) I apply the normalmap filter in that resulting .jgp image, select all, copy and paste it to a .psd, where I have all the rest of the parts done this way in layers;

(note 1: I do those two steps that way because when pasting the entire image the piece will be perfectly on place, so there's no need for manual adjustments, just delete the outside background color)

(note 2: I do the same as noted in 1) and 2) for all pieces and each texture, shadow/light, etc.)

3) When you have a case of overlapping pieces of metal, you apply a slight brightness to the upper piece (it's in a layer now :grin:) and there you are, the shader will read it as 'higher'. Bingo.

4) Make your scratches and dents all black by applying a black color overlay (double click on respective layer to open 'Blending options'-> select 'Color overlay' and black as the color);

5) For textures, shadows and imperfections you should save the .jpg for each with the base color below them (as the background is black -> imperfections and shadows are black, textures overlayed in black stay black -> no height generated at all);

6) Paste the results to the normalmap .psd and set the base textures and scratches to 'Overlay', then control their intensity by their opacity. Done (obviously you'll do this more than one time and not in that particular order, but well, it's just to have an idea of the process).

Another thing, try aplying a less higher number for the filter (3x3 would be fine for the PS plugin), with intensity around 5, it gives sharper and strong enough normals.

If it's too weak, duplicate the layer and set it to 'Overlay' in the .psd normalmap file.


About using geometry, my opinion is: the more geometric your model is, the better it looks.

Obvioulsy you're not going to model rivets and such, but heck, that detail you made is perfectly fine to be modeled, even more when your model counts only about 900 faces that way  :wink:

 
SacredStoneHead said:
@Al_Mansur:

You should do a special version of the diffuse for the normalmap making, without those shadows, as rgcotl pointed out.

All that because the filter identifies height like this: the brighter, the higher; the darker, the lower.

When you apply the normalmap filter in an unprepared diffuse, the shadows count as negative height, so, instead of looking like this:
      ___
___| 


It ends up looking like this:
___    ___
      \_/

      ^
        |
(shadow)
Using programs like ShaderMap or (I assume) Crazybump, you can set the X and Y axis of your normal map, to get the height going the right direction.
 
SacredStoneHead said:
@Al_Mansur:

You should do a special version of the diffuse for the normalmap making, without those shadows, as rgcotl pointed out.

All that because the filter identifies height like this: the brighter, the higher; the darker, the lower.

When you apply the normalmap filter in an unprepared diffuse, the shadows count as negative height, so, instead of looking like this:
      ___
___| 


It ends up looking like this:
___    ___
      \_/

      ^
        |
(shadow)

It's good to have the shadows, light, base texture, scratches and base color all in different layers, so you can render them in different layers and control their intensity via opacity and overlay in a layered normalmap file (usually .psd).

I generally do the following:

1) In the main file, I turn off all the layers (shadowing included) but the wanted piece and save that to a .jpg;

2) I apply the normalmap filter in that resulting .jgp image, select all, copy and paste it to a .psd, where I have all the rest of the parts done this way in layers;

(note 1: I do those two steps that way because when pasting the entire image the piece will be perfectly on place, so there's no need for manual adjustments, just delete the outside background color)

(note 2: I do the same as noted in 1) and 2) for all pieces and each texture, shadow/light, etc.)

3) When you have a case of overlapping pieces of metal, you apply a slight brightness to the upper piece (it's in a layer now :grin:) and there you are, the shader will read it as 'higher'. Bingo.

4) Make your scratches and dents all black by applying a black color overlay (double click on respective layer to open 'Blending options'-> select 'Color overlay' and black as the color);

5) For textures, shadows and imperfections you should save the .jpg for each with the base color below them (as the background is black -> imperfections and shadows are black, textures overlayed in black stay black -> no height generated at all);

6) Paste the results to the normalmap .psd and set the base textures and scratches to 'Overlay', then control their intensity by their opacity. Done (obviously you'll do this more than one time and not in that particular order, but well, it's just to have an idea of the process).

Another thing, try aplying a less higher number for the filter (3x3 would be fine for the PS plugin), with intensity around 5, it gives sharper and strong enough normals.

If it's too weak, duplicate the layer and set it to 'Overlay' in the .psd normalmap file.


About using geometry, my opinion is: the more geometric your model is, the better it looks.

Obvioulsy you're not going to model rivets and such, but heck, that detail you made is perfectly fine to be modeled, even more when your model counts only about 900 faces that way  :wink:

You really make it sound more difficult than it needs to be  :lol:  But your principles are sound.

@Al Mansur I think the main problem you're having with creating your normal maps is that you're not creating each part separately.  You don't have to create one complete height map, and generate the normal all in one go.  For example, you can create the normal map for the rivets separate from the rest.  Just create a black fill background, (or whatever works best for the situation, but for rivets black will probably work best, because then all details on the rivet starting from the black occluded part around the base will be extruded on the normal map), then put your layer with the rivets over top that (you did create a separate layers, right?), and then use the xnormal plugin to create a normal map from it.  You can then select out the rivets, and stack them over all the other details you've built using height maps.

Details like scratches and dents and such can be created on a separate layer, again using a neutral background fill (like 128, 128, 12:cool:, then using an overlay blend.  The blue channel on your overlay layer should be set to 128 so as not to neutralize the info on that layer (it's not a perfect blending method, but it's better than nothing).  On your map, the metal has way too much information.  Pare it down, and try to think of how the surface of metal usually looks and feels (ie smooth).  Keep prominent info like dents and pit marks visible, but leave most of the other stuff primarily to the specular map.  You're not trying to make a rock texture after all  :wink:

Also, try to keep the level of geometry even on your model.  You've modeled in the geometry on the brass parts, but only textured in the top piece of the helm.  Both of those elements should be equally prominent, and have an equal share of geometry, if your model is going to look balanced.  That is to say, if you're going to model in the brass parts, you should also model in all the other parts that stick out as much as the brass parts do, or else you make your model less believable.  For your model, I'd just leave the brass bits to a normal map.  It'll be way more defined, and not contrast as much with the top piece.

Some more general ideas: darken the diffuse a bit, intensify and brighten the specular.  Narrow the mesh.  Add some occlusion under the brass fittings.

Sorry if this is confusing, it's really late and I'm half asleep.  If you're having difficulty understanding this, send me a pm, and I'll try to explain it better (in French if it helps).
 
thorn_assault_and_sniper_rifles_by_blobmania-d4xcxw3.png

Semi-Futuristic (caseless round) weaponry, made to Skvor's concept images with some tweaking of pieces and geometry. The concept itself is a few pages back, cba to post it again.

The sniper can hold 5 high calibre rounds, not decided on any other specifics yet, and not decided on the round count for the assault rifle. Still need to make several attachments for them.

Sniper is 17.8K polies at present, with the Assault Rifle taking the lead with 20.4K polies.

Because they use caseless rounds, the only waste is in the form of non-flammable gases like CO2, and a bit of ash residue, all of which is expelled through the ventilation grilles above the trigger - no hot casings flying about. The sniper variant is a single-shot rifle which requires cocking in between shots, though the assault rifle has Single-Shot, 3-Round burst and Full Auto fire modes. A typical problem with caseless ammunition is the high temperatures causing premature discharge, so we've included both the ventilation grilles above the trigger and the vents running the length of the rifle to reduce heat build-up. You've got on and off safety catches reachable from your trigger finger, and the rifles both share some standard parts (stock, Grip & Trigger pieces, bolts and such) to make repair & use easier in the field.

Next i'll be working on the low-poly variants, and baking the normals.

Crits are welcome, as always

- Blob
 
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