Modelling Question

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Sina

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Look at the model down below, forget about the joint points or texture tweaks. The texture does not look metallish, I am using 3dmax and I can't get it to look golden kind of metallish, any one who has done texturing on 3dmax tell me how to get things look more metallish?

*is about to go mad*


greekarmor.jpg
 
Instead of wasting time with textures i would use an existing one, like
as-1019.jpg
this one, simply adjust the coloring in photoshop and lay it over. voila[/img]
 
Actually I don't agree with TYR at all. Even though I don't know how to help you, I think it is much better that you create it yourself rather than just re-use other textures.
 
Captain_Brian said:
I think it is much better that you create it yourself rather than just re-use other textures.

Sometimes it might be better to make things on your own, but why make things hard? Its generally a waste of time to create a metal texture while there are tons of free metallic textures and even fitting images of such an armor aviable, you will never ever achieve the quality yourself exept your real good in creating textures maybe. Ill show you an example of my work for Ufo Aftermath, using adjusted photographs as textures, using milkshape, they look even better with 3ds rendered. Id say we wait until Sina is done with his Armor and then see what came out

ak103_3.jpg
 
I do agree with Tyr, that finding a good image is often the best way to go. However, his picture is all wrong. If you take a 2d photograph of a 3d item, especially with one in that much detail, it will never look right on your texture. Instead, I'd suggest finding a smooth surface (an anodized brass belt buckle likely has the look you are going for), and importing that image as a diffuse bitmap to your material. Then, take a photo like the one Tyr used and use it for a bump map (this takes alot of adjusting sometimes, and could be better looking in the end without it. Finally, adjust the secular and glossiness levels on the material editor until it looks right. I highly suggest adding a light with shadows into your project, because the default lighting is often deceptive, and things look better or worse when brought into lighting. Another thing, is don't always rely on the material viewer or the viewport, do a quick render after every adjustment, and see how it looks finished off. However, for metals, if you really don't want to go get an image for whatever reason, I've found that the below method can be used to create a polished metal look.

1) Open your materials editor
2) For the first material, use the metal shader style, and create a diffuse material with the base color you want (an orangish yellow is a good beginning for a final look of gold).
3) Adjust the secular and glossy levels to, say 25/10 respectively. This gives it a low burnish to it, but nothing great. Adjust to taste, just remember, you're going for a dull polish right now, not a finished look.
4) Make this material 2-sided. Place this material on the inside polygons of your armor, and on the ridges (leaving the outside untextured for now).
5) Back in your material editor, go to the next material. Create a raytrace template style, with 0 opacity and extremely high secular levels. This is your "polish".
6) Add a bump map of the the armor (if you don't have a photographic image to work with, then make a shadow map out of black and white in photoshop. Use greys to create gradual ridges instad of punched holes and sharp plateaus.
7) Apply the polish to the untextured exterior of your armor.

When you're finished, the outside surface should shine to a high polish, but the transparency combined with the dull-polished gold backing will give it a look of highly burnished metal. Also, this has the added benefit that the inside of the armor doesn't look as highly polished, which it shouldn't.

The cons to this system:
- Ray-traces are a heavy drag on resources, and could slow down your rendering. Ok, WILL slow down your rendering.
- Unless you have fumbled through it before, it's likely to take hours and several tries to get right.

In all, I'd reccommend the first method over the ray-traced method. Find yourself an image of flat, polished metal, add it as diffuse, add a bump map, you're good.
 
Thank you very much lethandis, I will try what you said as soon as possible. However that slow down got my attention. I am making this model for m&b and as we know m&b works mainly on low poly models, thus I wouldn't like a armor that would slow down the game. So I will also try it with leaving out the ray trace (unless it has no effect on game speed, does it?).

And for all those said above, I do use real photos yes but you usually have to fix them in photoshop anyway (unless it is a very simple thing like a sword).

Here is the real photo:
AH6071B20muscle20armour20brass.jpg


and here is how I fixed it(not very talented in photoshop):
greekarmorfront.jpg
 
Using real life photo's as a base texture is actually a common practice if you want to make realistic models. To make the texture more fitting, you can add highlights and shades or warp it a little so it bends correctly. (UFO Aftermath, hey, their last tech release was like ages ago lol)
 
Yes, perhaps I need to brush up on photoshop skills, but I've found that simpler photographs tend to produce better textures. Like the flat metal for an armor, adding a bump map later, as I mentioned above.
 
Well i didnt mention which is the best of all way to do this, just the fastest and most effective way to do this counts imho, of course you dont lay such an image over the whole object, i mentioned the front part, the rest gets as you sugested a plain brass metal texture adjusted to the implemented image color or the other way as Thorn mentioned would sound like the way i would texture this armor. Of course to get the ultimate results you need bump maping etc, and maybe hours of fine adjustments to a whole character until hes perfect but hey maybe you should give the whole game a complete face lift then! (Ufo Aftershock release will be soon so im warming up for round 2!)
 
Final version; I used a slight bump and raytrace. I will post again once I play a bit with speculars and glossiness.

greekarmor1copy.jpg
 
You need to loose the black marks at te top of the ribs (not talking abou the nipples. heh... nipple). If you look at the photo, those black marks are the reflection of something in front of the armor, not a part of the armor itself.
 
Well yes I noticed that too, and I thought maybe if I left them, they would look like reflections, but they more look like oil paints I guess. Well some other people have said the same thing too, I will erase them and put a version like that today or tomorrow. Thanks for the comments.
 
excellent model, however the texture is not what you want. That pic is of a cuirass made by a company called deepka. while it looks greak to the untrained eye, it looks terrible to those who know their history.

Below are some pictures of what a REAL greek/early roman styles muscled cuirass should look like:
musc1.jpg

600_Day_2_Greek_Festival_05_075.jpg

Hendryx1.jpg


i hope this helps.
 
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