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  1. Sheep-Goats

    Question and critique.

    greatkingdavid 说:
    MLG STRONGHOLD IS MLG
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRukfltMxNI&list=UU9i1vmz8oMgLxBCg7qm03BQ

    I watched this and I just want to suggest that if you record commentary for your videos they'll be better.  Even if you're not quite comfortable with commenting yet.  You don't have a terrible voice so you're ahead of lots of people who want to put up videos of them playing games.

    I also suggest checking out the Something Awful forums and their Let's Play section.  They have a critique thread (at the top), a tech support thread, etc.  Of course because it's SA you have to pay ten bucks to get an account to post on there but whatever.  I've had mine for maybe a decade now.
  2. Sheep-Goats

    Question and critique.

    I don't have much of an issue with the Snake Cult Stronghold.  If you have been able to save most of the knights granted to you as you level up in the order you should have like 80 knights and 120 sergeants.  Should be a cakewalk with a crew like that.  You'll have about 1:1 losses until you get through the priestesses and knights but after that it's all fodder and you won't lose many more fighters.
  3. Sheep-Goats

    When should i be able to start my own faction?

    I almost never serve as a vassal.  Mercenary work takes no relationship hits if you quit it and supplies a stipend that vassalage doesn't.  You can't improve your villages or whatever but that takes so long to do that I don't find many benefits from doing it anyway.

    There are two good reasons to be a vassal:

    1) It's hard to get married to a particular lady unless you become a vassal.  You could also just wait until some lord converts to your new kingdom and take whatever daughter he brings with him, but whatever.

    2) You can empty out the garrison of your castle if you're given a castle while being a vassal.  Then renounce and attack it and have an easier victory.  However I don't usually find it that hard to take the castle, the hard part is holding it.
  4. Sheep-Goats

    Is prophesy of pendor dead?

    Please give the Noldor jetpacks.
  5. Sheep-Goats

    When should i be able to start my own faction?

    Kyren_Leah 说:
    Around what ingame day/time (e.g. day 500?) do you guys usually start creating your own kingdom? I'm wondering how long it takes on average to raise a character and an army to manage it. In my game the first castles are reaching the 400 defenders line, and I'm on day 200, so I'm wondering if I shouldn't get on with the kingdom as to not face unbearable odds in sieges :/

    If I haven't been goofing around I sometimes start at around 200 but usually I go off and get Qualis gems and things like that too and don't get started until about a year is up.
  6. Sheep-Goats

    When should i be able to start my own faction?

    Get your companions settled (I roll with ten, depending on what you're up to you may have only eight) and skill them up to cover you in the important skills.  Surgery and tactics are by far the most important two, then wound treatment, pathfinding and first aid.  Get your character to a decent level (~20 or 25) doing whatever build you like -- at that point I usually don't have much for leadership but I do have Power Strike and Power Draw at 10 and Surgery/Tactics at maybe 5 or 6.  You can do this just by thumping bandits.  While you're doing this you should be doing a ton of quests for all the villages within easy reach of whatever you're going to take over first (I usually get Singal first).  I aim for about 90 relations with about five villages in a loop near my target town, it's best if they're villages of another faction than the one you plan to attack, so you probably want to pick a border property to attack first.  It's imperative in this stage that you go around and build a business in every city on the map -- you will have to do a few quests for uncooperative lords to get this done but it isn't too bad -- doing this will give you a passive income of about 8.5k which helps a lot, but it does cost a lot of money to set up these things, so make sure you're hitting the tournaments really hard.

    While I'm doing this I also start building relationships with lords by doing quests for them.  I want to have four reliable lords (check this thread and the documents therein for a list of them: http://forums.taleworlds.com/index.php/topic,317058.0.html) to 50 relations before I start any ****.  I won' t finish doing this until the end what I do in the next paragraph.  Also while I'm doing this I send every companion I can find on the Right to Rule quest (Let me ask you something... > Do you know I aspire to be king of this land?), especially the ones that aren't currently in my party.  This means you hire literally every companion you see -- if they don't fit in you can just tell them to leave right away but then in the future travelers will tell you where they are.  This will get your Right to Rule rating up to 45 or so eventually which is critical for when you found your kingdom -- without it no lord will respect or join you and it'll be you vs. the world, with it many lords will come and try to serve under your banner (if you let them) and that means they aren't fighting for the enemy against you in a huge ******** stack. 

    Once my party is rounded out and I'm leveled decently I start doing Knighthood Order quests.  Pick your favorite knighthood order (I favor Eventide above all others -- best sergeants by a mile IMO, which are also decent archers, very reliable knights, plus their Lordly helm is the best possible helm you can get and you get it for free by doing enough quests -- 64 head and 10 body for that one piece and it looks great!), find out where they're based and start doing quests for them by talking to the guard in the castle.  If they just cuss you out it's because you either don't have enough renown, honor, or you have negative relations with them.  Dawn and Eventide both have negative relations to start -- to fix this find one of their spawns (Eventide spawns near Singal) and follow them around or kite them into fights, then join on their side and help them and get +4, repeat as necessary.  If you don't want to mess with the relationship stuff then try the Knights of the Lion in Sarleon.  Doing these quests for your order will give you large amounts of those factions knights and sergeants for free (well, there's a hiring cost and the weekly wages but you don't have to train them or spend prestige on them or anything else), good armor, etc.  One of the quests involves winning honor for that faction by going around and winning fights with a special crew of only those knights that is given to you and that can't be topped up and won't allow others to be hired in while on that quest -- it can be hard to find enough big fights to hit your targets for this quest UNLESS you sign on as a mercenary while they're going on with some warring faction (talk to a lord of that faction, ask for a quest, they love to offer you the "hire you as a merc" quest).  This will give you plenty of large armies to fight and with your band of top quality knights you can usually take down armies with 2 or 3 times as many troops as yours.  There are several ranks to rise through, once you hit the top rank there'll be a big seige battle.  After this battle you can still go and do quests for your order and get the rewards of big piles of good troops for little effort (comparatively). 

    If you haven't done the relationship work with villages and lords before you finish these quests I would strongly consider firing all my knights and going back to just my companions to finish that.  You also want to save up at least 250k.

    Once you've finished this you will have about:

    -2000 renown and 250k dinars
    -5 villages with about 90 renown near your target city
    -45 right to rule
    -Top notch equipment for yourself
    -Good (8+) surgery, tactics and wound treatment skills either on you or in your party
    -A solid group of companions covering most of the party skills you can't

    Then build your seige army.  I like a lot of huscarls and maybe 25% archers, I back them with order knights and seargents but you save a ton of money and actually have much better seige troops if you hire infantry and archers instead of trying to all-purpose it with knights.  Let your merc contract expire and start hitting caravans of the faction you want to attack.  Once you have negative relations with them you can seige and probably take their city if you catch it at base garrison -- even easier if you catch it just after its lost a fight (some people start in Laria or Ethos and try to get the Noldor to sack those towns before they start). 

    The real issue isn't taking the town, it's keeping it.  Within like five real time minutes of you taking the town you can expect a stack of about 1000 to come and bash into your city or castle.  I use that time to run around frantically to my friendly nearby villages so I can pump up the garrison as much as possible before they hit.  With luck you can have ~200 of the troops healed up that you used to take the city and ~200 ****ty villagers to stuff at the bottom of your troop order just to give you better odds in the defense.  If you can break their first assault then you're over the hump.  Just start raising hell with them, raiding their villages, KOing their lords over and over (let the ones with good personalities go free -- the ones who are jerks you can imprison and just hold so they don't respawn so quickly.  Each time a faction army gets defeated the lord has to buy himself a new template of troops based on how much money he has, so making him do this over and over and ransacking his villages makes his armies slowly weaker.  What you're really hoping for however is that a good lord (one of the ones you went to 50 with) will join you -- they'll be more tempted to do this if you have unassigned lands.  Anyway, after raising hell for a while you can start asking for peace at the start of battles and you may eventually get it.

    Once at peace you'll need to rebuild your treasury (if possible) and recruit like a madman.  You want like 2000 guys in your castle or city.  With about 1000 guys in your cities they won't get attacked very often (if at all) by enemies and you don't have to run to hell and back trying to not lose territory you spent so much time taking.  You get 2000 so that when you next go to war you can then scurry between your old town and your new one depositing tons of troops before the retaliation wave hits, things get easier and easier from there.  (For a while, eventually all the lords you didn't recruit will be bunched together in some remaining corner of the map and you'll be fighting against 2000 troops all the time, but at that point if you've followed my advice you'll have probably one lord with 1000 of his own troops and a bunch of others with 300-500 under their command that you can bring along to dogpile the enemy and still come out ahead.)

    This many troops are expensive to maintain but what you do is stuff them in there then give that city to one of your chill ass lords.  Don't give it to any **** lords, they might leave, so again it's important to know the personalities of the lords you command (figuring that out is in the document I linked to above).  If you make companions lords be aware that they have personalities as lords as well!  You will have to look on the wiki for that, but the only companion lord who has an acceptable disposition and is noble is Sir Rayne.  Honorable lords also like you more when you grant territory to other lords -- neutral lords mildly dislike it (so you have to have feasts sometimes or help them in battle to maintain relations) and **** lords really hate it when anyone but them gets territory which means they're going to leave shortly after you get them and aren't worth having to begin with.  The only territories you keep for yourself really are your first town / castle for sentimental reasons and to have a place where you can dump troops (and maybe to build a knighthood order there -- note that Eventide doesn't require Qualis gems to build, only that Sir Alistair is in your party, which is another great plus for them -- you may however want to build a custom knighthood order there instead) and villages.  Every other castle / town should be stuff with 1k troops and then given to a lord IMO. 

    This may seem like overkill but if you plan to keep what you take and grow steadily from there you need to do most of it for things to go smoothly.  For the rest of the game it will be imperative that you keep track of lord personalities and convert as many as you can to your side, and that will include doing stupid menial tasks for them from time to time and releasing them from captivity in battles as often as possible (except for the ones you don't want joining anyway).  If you can't convert lords to your side your foes just become more and more concentrated and your climb to power just becomes more and more steep. 
  7. Sheep-Goats

    Is there any way to tone down the mountains/forest?

    Hey thanks for the help.  The map thing helped a lot.  There's still sometimes a giant cliff in my way out of nowhere but at least most of the landscapes don't look like the top of a lemon meringue pie any more.  The bandits are still hounding me all over the place but I guess I'll just take it as a sign to stop playing for the day when a little 12 bandit party is a burden instead of quick mop up job.
  8. Sheep-Goats

    How to deal with large armies

    Enemy armies will recruit in any prisoners that their foes are holding when they win.  If you let any large army run around for a long time they get huge.  There are a few good ways to deal with this:

    1) Late game: You should have at least one lord you can boss around that has about 1,000 troops in his army.  Make him follow you and make sure he's close enough to join the battle when it starts.  Head your army with high quality cavalry units (Hero Adventurer, good Knighthood order cavalry like Eventide or Lion knights, or custom knights) or if you can get the fight into the mountains with a bunch of top notch archers.  You'll suffer 1:1 casualties for the first two or three battle cycles but you'll clear out their good guys and at that point your troops will stop dying off and the rest of the battle will be a cakewalk. 

    2) Midgame: Kite the army you want to kill into Noldor territory and drag them into one of the Noldor lord armies.  Join on the Noldor's side, tell them to hold position and get off their horses and stand closer.  This maximizes the archery ability of the Noldor and from there on out it'll go like Late Game above.

    3) Early game: You need at least a good horse (Red Leather or better) and the ability to kill a lot of high tier troops, so not early early game but towards the end of early.  Anyway, this is the same as midgame but set the battle size to something pretty small (like 50).  One person in the battle is always you and you can probably kill 20 foes on your own in every fight without much issue.  Some of the early rounds will end with you running around mopping up a dozen or so tough foes after your meager starting force has been knocked out but once you get through their elite units (which almost always come in first in a pack) you'll start to make headway again.  If you or a companion you bury at the bottom of your order) don't have a decent First Aid skill or if you can't kill a lot of units reliably on your own (Ruby Rune Bow foreva) this might not be possible for your to pull off and you may have to wait until you can bring 200+ units to bear on the Noldor's side as above in midgame to even out the numbers better.

    The above strategies don't work well against the Noldor.  The only reliable way to beat them is to either lure them to a river and fill the river with a mix of heavy infantry with good shields (Huscarls) and archer (and in this case you still usually need at least 3/4 of the number of troops they have), or else outnumber them so you have the numerical advantage against the early spawns of Twilight Knights and Nobles.  It's hard to have the same impact vs. the Noldor even using a small battle size because they all are excellent archers and there's no way for you to tilt the scales enough to save your guys without catching a bunch of arrows that eventually take you out.
  9. Sheep-Goats

    How to use ships?

    How do you actually go somewhere on your own ship?  I bought one in a port because I read that it saves on morale issues but I can't figure out how to actually get on it and make it go somewhere.  I'm probably just missing a text option somewhere but I don't get it.
  10. Sheep-Goats

    Is there any way to tone down the mountains/forest?

    Probably eight out of ten fights I get into are in some hellscape that looks like an epileptic was manning the Richter machine during an 8.0 earthquake, often covered with forests so dense I have a hard time getting through them on foot (and if there aren't forests there's rocks strewn around...
  11. Sheep-Goats

    Favorite companion weapons

    joeman 说:
    I have a question.  What equipment do you give to a companion that is required to survive?  (e.g. the one with surgery)

    Should the companion be on foot or on a horse?  What equipment to give to the compapion and how do you develop?

    So far I put Ansen on foot and give him a shield and a mace, but he might survive better if he is on a horse.  When I used to play the old M&B, I give surgery to Sara the Fox because she has a high riding skill and can be put on the horse that cannot be chopped down (I can't remember the name).  However, she is always the first one to get knocked unconscious.    But for this play through, I choose Ansen to be my surgent instead.

    The most important thing is to move them to the bottom of your army list so they don't spawn in until your other guys are exhausted.  They won't gain any levels this way (other than from shared EXP and training) so if you're trying to help them level up fight smaller groups that they can kill.  To keep a guy alive I suggest a one handed weapon (D'Shar Saber or D'Shar Heavy Sabre), the heaviest armor they can wear, a Light Crossbow (best that can be used on a shield), some bolts, and most importantly a sturdy horse (at least a Caprisoned Hunter, which requires 3 riding).  IF they have the crossbow they'll spend most of their time riding away from anything that gets close to them taking really bad potshots at whomever is chasing, but the chasing character will take forever to close with them and they stay alive a bit longer. 

    You can also try making a separate character group and name it "Medics" or something and have them ride off into a corner, hit backspace now and then to see if anyone is going towards them and if they are choose their group and tell them to ride somewhere else.

    I often find going Strength and Intelligence is best for Mount and Blade, mostly so that my surgeon and tactician (me) is always alive.  I only really use Agility for Riding anyway (a little Horse Archery is nice but whatever, I can get by on 2 or 3) and you can get that to 5 on character creation and there's an achievement to get it to 6.  Charisma is really only for Leadership so you can get a discount on wages (the extra troops are okay but not enough of a bonus to fix any battles you wouldn't otherwise be able to win on your own) but that's about it as 3 prisoner management is plenty, just bring in the premium guys from your battles instead of a herd of hundred dinar scrubs.  Putting points into Int also gives you twice as many skill points which means getting both Power Draw and Power Strike and maybe even Iron Flesh later on isn't a big issue -- or you can up First Aid or something instead of Iron Flesh (much better use of points IMHO).
  12. Sheep-Goats

    Favorite companion weapons

    joeman 说:
    Are lances really that bad?  I regularly get a lance in the face and get knocked out.

    Right now I am in the early phase without any troops.  My companions all have blunt weapons for prisoners. 

    Watching the companions fight, I think fighting with lances are okay when companions are riding high speed.  They get into trouble when they get bogged down with horses standing still.  In that case, the AI sometimes does the right thing and switch weapon, but sometimes doesn't. 

    I get a good result having a mixture of calvary and infantry.  It's better than having all calvary.

    Lances are good if the character either has very low weapon skill or high weapon skill.  They generally only couch on the first attack but are fairly good at that, so someone like Ansen can at least kill one Sea Raider per fight that way instead of none.  Once their polearm skill is 180 or so they do quite well poking with it if they're on a horse as that keeps enough distance between them and the foe for the weapon to hit at a decent speed.  Do not give them Knight Lances or other long lances you use to couch with -- I think the best one for companions is the Balanced Light Lance which is long enough for the initial couch but fast enough and with fairly high damage so that the poking that follows does okay.

    One handed weapons are better, however you have to give them weapons with at least 110 reach or they miss a lot.  There aren't many of those

    This is assuming you want them using a shield.  I do because they live a lot longer with a shield and perform their distraction duties better (from my up and coming cluster of solders) and stay alive to keep their party skills active for longer.  If you don't want them using a shield then a halberd is my suggestion.
  13. Sheep-Goats

    Favorite companion weapons

    Gear that I feel is better than the rest:

    -Heavy D'Shar Saber
    -Huscarl Shield
    -Fine Light Crossbow or whatever regular bow they have the skill for if it's compound+
    -Pack of bolts / arrows
    -Caprisoned War Horse of some sort (or better)

    Armor just depends on strength.  I use D'Shar Brass (10 STR required) on my weaker troops and whatever they can handle for stronger troops.  The Huscarl shield is very large so low shield skill characters do very well with it, it's durable enough, and it's big enough and presents my insignia strongly enough that I shoot less arrows into my own guys that way.

    I bring my guys up to 10 strength and 3 riding if they don't start there.  If they do I don't up any stat other than Intelligence.  I cover Surgery, Wound Treatment, First Aid, Pathfinding, Tracking, Tactics and Engineering with one skill for each lower leveled character and they also get Trainer maxed out.  One character gets looting and levels up agility instead of intelligence.  Any high level companions only really round out their stats to certain points for training a custom knighthood order and put points into training.

    Lower weapons skill characters get more kills once they have a decent horse if you give them a lance, but if you give them a one handed weapon and let them use it for about a hundred days they can kill bandits and Vanskerries reliably and that's enough. 

    The Heavy D'Shar Sabers are 125 long and true one handed weapons so on horseback they hit with them better than most any other weapon.  They're only sold in D'Shar towns and are pretty rare there so in the interim I either just set them to auto-loot one handed weapons or I give them silvered long swords or regular D'Shar sabers. 

    Early game I let them ride around and get kills without instructions so I can level them up.  In the midgame when I'm raising an army they follow me out to draw away the initial cavalry charge while my infantry groups up on a hillside.  They're terrible with their projectile weapons but when they use them they run away from whoever is chasing them and this does a lot to bust up knots of cavalry and infantry so my more concentrated forces can mop up behind them.  Late game I bury them at the bottom of the stack to keep them from getting KO'd so I can benefit from their perk buffs as much as possible.  Even Leth or Siggy never seems as good as a top tier troop and if you put them at the front of your army they take up a lot of slots in tight battles and you end up doing all of the work getting through a 1000 man army when eight of your ten troops are trash (and often start at half health thanks to being revived after gettign KO'd from the last battle from First Aid).  I've tried making them into fighters or archers in the past and unless you're going to use ctrl+X and cheat that just takes an impossibly long time and you end up with mediocre troops when you could have your crack troops out to fend off the crack troops the enemy usually fields first. 

    If I had a 10 persuasion character or whatever I would consider just making a couple of intelligence guys with shields and putting them on horses but designating them archers so they stay back in the protected zone and making the other 16 or 17 guys into heavy archers with a two handed weapon (probably two handed maces).  As is charisma is always the last thing I touch as everything in it can be worked around with less effort than Intelligence or Agility or especially Strength (power draw and power strike are just irreplaceable in Pendor thanks to sky high enemy armor values on most tougher armies -- unless you just don't fight yourself, but that's boring as ****). 

    I do most of the prisoner harvesting early on myself.  In the midgame army-raising stage I'm just killing dangerous foes with a bow as quickly as they can before they plow into my formation and kill a handfull of guys I've spent so much effort on leveling.  In the lategame I either get Ebony Guantlet or put Doom Maces on my Custom Order and let them gather prisoners for me while I continue to pound jerks into the sand as efficiently as possible, usually with a Ruby Bow and Ruby Axe (often without a shield -- my current guy has 88 chest armor* and I don't have noldor stuff on him yet, so unless I'm fighting Empire or Noldor so some other missile heavy force I don't need the shield).

    I also rely more heavily on tournaments for income in the early and mid-game instead of prisoners.  I always stop by the arena and ask if any are going on and if they are that's where I usually go next.

    I actually think it's only a little better to use your troops this way than making them into worthwhile warriors or archers or whatever.  Either way they're only a little helpful so you can basically use them however you like and not worry about it.



    *Reinforced Eventide Helm adds 10, Lordly guantlets 12, and Reinforced Something Plate adds 66.
  14. Sheep-Goats

    Pendor Reference Sheets -- At my side while I play

    I often make printable sheets for games I'm playing, especially RPGs, to have access to certain reference info and to track certain things that go on in the game.  These are what I use for Prophesy of Pendor.  First is my character tracking sheet.  In the old days there weren't companion...
  15. Sheep-Goats

    Bows - mention of some spoiler stuff.

    ravenscroft 说:
    useful info to be sure, though the conundrum still exists since i tested the ruby bow with a power draw of 10 and didnt get the tight redicule. *shrug*.

    What is your archery skill?  Try doing some tests where you leave your power draw at 10 and change your archery skill level.  Screenshots at 50, 100, 150, 200, 300, 400 and 500 should be enough.  This would probably most easily be done via the import/export trick (or possibly the troop editor).  To do the import/export trick you just export your character, exit Mount and Blade, find the text file for your character (should be in a CharExport folder in your mod folder) open it with notepad and change the values to whatever you'd like, save it, and re-enter the game.  Import your character and he'll have new stats.

    I understand what you're saying and the screenshots are weird with the different reticules for noldor vs. emerald as both bows have a power draw requirement of 6.  My guess is that there's an accuracy number involved somehow that the item editor isn't reading properly, nor is it displayed correctly in game (editor lists it at 0, game lists all bows (I think) at 99) but it is used in the game mechanics correctly. 

    It's possible, however, that there's some other bug like the runic bows actually requiring 10 power draw to be used, but that not registering for actual useage but still affecting accuracy or something like that.
  16. Sheep-Goats

    Strange Runic Weapons -- Stats and Locations [Spoilers]

    ravenscroft 说:
    and with an awesome double post ill add that after taking the ruby and emerald bow against a group of wayfairers solo i found the emerald to be a better fit. the ruby was dealing out killing blows every time but i found that i was more accurate with the emerald bow and still one shot nearly everyone. just had one guy who took one in the leg or something lol.

    It's actually a pretty interesting question to me as to which bow is best vs. the others but it would require more effort than I'm willing to do to test it out.  What I'd probably do is start a game and cheat to get the requirements out of the way, set my character stats to a certain level with the import/export trick, and then fight the same somewhat challenging army a few times with each bow and minimal troop support and just feel it out. 

    I tried the emerald vs. ruby bow this way a little bit, not enough to really feel things out, but what put me in the ruby bow camp in the end was what Abyss said.  For a siege I typically bring a big two hander (or swingable polearm if I feel like it), my best bow, and two packs of noldor arrows.  I'd rather have the ruby bow there as I want every shot to be a kill, I don't want to spend two arrows on one foe if I can help it, because I only have so many arrows to go through before I have to start putting myself at risk.  One other thing that's nice about the ruby bow is that you can one-shot most horses (anything hunter or less usually) which is really useful for when you've got someone charging your fragile line with their shield up and mace cocked.  Horses don't carry shields, afterall, and are more of a threat to a line of archers than the man on their back most of the time.
  17. Sheep-Goats

    Bows - mention of some spoiler stuff.

    Both power draw and bow skill affect reticule tightness.  This was added to M&B somewhere around v.808.  I've tested the effects of skill and power draw on reticule tightness before in an unscientific way, which I'll summarize below:

    To have a totally tight reticule you need to have a power draw skill that's four greater than the bow's requirement.  So to use a strong bow you need three in power draw, but to have a totally tight reticle you have to have seven in power draw.  Inaccuracies from your power draw skill not being high enough cannot be overcome even with ridiculous (600+) weapon proficiencies.  They seem to be hardwired penalties to your reticule tightness -- my guess is that the game first sets the size of your reticule based on your bow proficiency/running speed and then, if your power draw isn't high enough, it opens the minimum size of the reticule by a fixed amount.  This is part of why the requirement for the ruby bow in PoP is Six Power Draw -- you need to have ten in power draw to use it totally accurately, which is the max you can have in that (and any other) skill.

    To make discussion relative, I will define "one unit" to be the amount the reticule loosens if you are one shy of the optimal power draw amount.  So if you have a strong bow you would need seven power draw to have a 100% tight reticule with high bow skill (300 or so).  If you have six power draw, you would have a reticule that was open from 100% closed by "one unit".  If you had three and thus could barely use the bow you would have a reticule that was open from 100% by four units. 

    At 50 bow skill you usually have about a four unit penalty.  At 100 a three unit penalty.  At 150 two, at 200 one and at 250 you can have an almost 100% closed reticule. 

    If you're running you get about a six unit penalty.  If you're galloping on a horse with no horse archery skill you get about a six unit penalty, each point of horse archery takes that penalty down by one until you have six in horse archery at which point you're shoot when moving just like you do when still.

    Bows also have inherent "accuracy" values that affect reticule tightness.  I don't have any feel for how big of an impact those numbers have, however, as out of habit I only use bows with 99 accuracy and as bows with widely varying accuracy values seem unpopular in mods and in native.  Most of the time there are a few bows with 95 and almost everything else has 99.

    If your penalty is one unit or so (you're standing still on foot but don't quite have optimal power draw for your bow) you usually have enough accuracy to kill people on a castle wall in a seige from a safe distance, but headshots will still be slightly challenging.  If your penalty is two you'll have to get dangerously close and headshots will be so unreliable as to probably not be worth it and you'll go for two chest shots instead.  If your penalty is around four (you're using a bow you're barely able to use, or your using a bow that requires power draw 3 with a power draw of 5 but only have a bow skill of 150 or so) your bow will be annoyingly inaccurate but still useable.  Any more than four and you'll probably be less frustrated just sticking with a handheld weapon.

    As for PoP, I like the ruby bow the best as it makes each of my arrows do more damage and as I don't like running out of arrows it makes it take longer before I have to go into melee when I don't want to.  It also lets me one shot most horses, which is really nice.  The emerald bow is a good deal though, the speed is really nice and when there are a lot of horses bearing down on my line of archers it helps me keep them safer, but overall I prefer ruby.  I guess if I had one of each I'd use ruby for seiges and emerald for normal battles -- sapphire is really fast but I'd prefer emerald for the slight power boost.

    Wu-long 说:
    Any chance theirs rune arrows?  :wink:
    So are the bows worth the price?

    If you already have a knighthood order for some premium troops then yes, the runic bows are a very big improvement over what's available elsewhere in the game.  The jump from a Noldor bow to a ruby bow (or emerald) is very big.  It's big enough that I'd much rather stick with my normal melee weapons and go for an enhanced bow rather than the other way around, but I rely pretty heavily on archery too.

    In other words, if I had six qualis gems to spend I'd definitely get a knighthood order, then a bow first and only then a better hand held weapon.  If I had exactly three gems though I'd build a knighthood order or two first and wait for extra gems to get the weapon, but for an improved bow it's a close call while for an improved weapon I'd have no trouble waiting.
  18. Sheep-Goats

    Kryos Dux is a madman

    spool32 说:
    I play on hardcore, no earlier save to recover from. Right now, my choices are either go to war with the Empire (attack him) or make sure my map speed is faster than his. He will follow me across the entire map and always knows where I am no matter what. Sometimes he gets distracted and fights some bandits but always makes a beeline for me afterwards, even though I'm positive I'm far, far, far outside his range of perception.

    Very annoying. Can I delete this noble somehow via tweaks in the config files?

    You can attack him and then visit an Empire town and pay some money to the empire to repair your relationship.  He'll stay pissed off and should run thanks to his army size of one and you should no longer have him pestering you, and the empire shouldn't stay permanently mad at you (unless you're already associated with another kingdom or have started the kingdom of Pendor).
  19. Sheep-Goats

    Az-Aziz mines' weapons - not worth it...

    Personally I spend my first two Qualis gems on knighthood orders (I like Silvermist and Ebony Guantlet) and make due with the normal weapons until later on.  The Dai-Katana with 50p is a perfectly adequate two hander, the warhammer is a great one hander, and a strong bow with some Noldor arrows is enough to get your archery done until you can save up some qualis gems.

    However, I do feel the Al Aziz weapons are worth it.  Six more dexterity isn't six more weapon speed, more dexterity points only marginally improve your weapon speed, it's not a one for one thing, so you can't say the elixers add more speed and are therefore better.  The one handed ruby axe is a fantastic one handed weapon, far better than the warhammer.  The ruby bow is a huge improvement over whatever you were using, etc.  The two handed sword is a bit short but 125 is enough reach to do well with your two hander and with 75p even a novice swordsman will kill almost everything in one shot. Any of the the three glaives would be the ideal seige weapon. The one handed Al-Aziz sword is kind of unspectacular though, should probably be faster overall to be a contender with the axe.
  20. Sheep-Goats

    I have a problem

    Step 1: Take a castle or town.

    Step 2: Visit the throne room in your castle or town.  In that room there will be a guy who runs your castle/town for you ("steward", though his job title may change based on regional terms for steward).  Talk to him.  He will give you the option to take up any of the native cultures (Fierdvanian, Ravensternian, etc) or the old culture of Pendor.  Once you take up Pendor's culture you have a 50% chance of getting pendorian recruits from your villages (and the other 50% of the time they will be whatever that village was natively, so that you still have access to the native cultures once you rub out a kingdom).

    You missed step 2.  The game doesn't automatically assume you want to be Pendorian, it leaves you a choice.  If you support a claimant it may make a choice for you however, I haven't tried doing that in PoP yet so I'm not sure if you get the option to be Pendorian if you support a claimant, then reject him, and then try to switch -- so if you want a sure shot at being Pendorian take a castle on your own as a rebel and then switch over.
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